The Hole

After a little over 38 hours of travelling, I finally arrived at Deadman's Cay, Long Island, the Bahamas. I was absolutely shattered after stunted sleep and poor eating. Unfortunately no one thought to come and pick me up from the airport, but I found Joyce (Charlie's wife), who I recognised from last year (and she was helpful in wearing a Vertical Blue t-shirt) and pleaded for a lift (actually from her friends), which they kindly consented to, so no real dramas (thanks Joyce!). I even managed to escape for a few hours from the horrid LAX international airport with some friends of my flatmate who I crashed into in Auckland when their earlier flight to LA was delayed by about three hours. They had a rental car and we had a look at some of the beaches and had some dinner (our lunch) in Santa Monica. I'm still constantly surprised about the lack of airport security in the US for those in transit. Americans are strange in many ways...

I feel I'm a little jinxed. Whenever I go anywhere to dive I seem to attract poor weather. This trip seems to be no different. I have little recollection of the last flight as I fell in and out of slumber but I did notice the strong winds as we came in to land and the mini plane was dipping sideways offering views over the island alternating with rapidly moving fluffy clouds on a blue backdrop. I was awakened by a strong urge to try to catch a glimpse of the blue hole from above. Unfortunately I was seated on the wrong side of the plane to have any remote hope.

Upon arrival I was rushed off to Dean's Blue Hole with other divers staying at Ellen's Inn. A quick swim and a few shallow dives in my togs and mask refreshed me and reminded me a lot of last year's arrival. The wind is strong and the sand blasts at your legs while you dress. The hole is once again full of weed (however there seems to be much less plastic). The weed is not isolated on the surface but hangs in the water to great depth, suspended in waiting for the unsuspecting diver to swim through or grab onto their lanyard or fin. With the weed comes and unexpectedly pleasant surprise. There is much more fish life around this year. I have already seen sizable fish swimming near the line and the little shrimps and crabs in the weed were noted after they fell on me during a quick weed ball fight (think snow-balls). There was a strong current on the surface as the water dragged in by the oversized breakers barely visible just around the corner in the open sea pushed the surface water around the hole. The visibility was once again missing. On my first day a mere five meters and dark. The “blue” hole was once again clouded by floating particles and posing more as a black hole, sucking our spirits away. To top things off, it is colder than last year. At about 22 degrees I can only hope that it does not become colder on the descent. I packed my wetsuit but not with the intent of wearing it. He first day was beautiful and refreshing, but the novelty will wear thin with time. On sunny days the temperature increases slightly, but we need more than an hour at a time.

But there is hope, the forecast is due to improve in the coming week and each day the hole changes. Today I could see the side of the hole while diving. Rather than the fear of crashing I felt last year with no experience of visibility, I enjoyed seeing those walls again, a sign that I am finally beginning to relax at depth.